Tuesday, February 25, 2025

A CulinaryMaster

Blunt, strict, with a maniacal eye for detail and above all, ­talented, Victor Borg is one of the most respected chefs in the local ­culinary scene. And when you speak to him or have the opportunity to dine at Grain Street or Under Grain you understand why. You also realize that Chef Borg means every word ­passionately. In fact, it is the constant evolution of his work that keeps him at the forefront of local gastronomic industry. Chef Borg shared with Delicious, his style, his views on the industry and projects in the pipeline.

What is your schedule like?

My day starts around 10 or 11 a.m., depending on the schedule. Mornings are usually dedicated to meetings, as I am involved in various aspects: consulting on the food and beverage for the new Verdala project, the Cheeky Monkey franchise, and overseeing marketing and sales for Grain. After meetings, I head to the restaurant to check in with the staff on duty at both establishments (Under Grain and Grain Street) and prepare for the day. I’m very hands-on in the kitchen and once service starts, I’m fully immersed, and afterwards, there’s stock ordering to manage. Some days, I conduct staff training, attend events, or deliver motivational speeches. Every day is different and my days are always packed.

Your leadership style has been described as strict, even nitpicking. Do you agree?

Definitely. I describe my style as “FF”—fair and firm. Yes, I’m strict, but it’s necessary in my position when running restaurants of the highest calibre, one holding a Michelin star and the other a Michelin Bib Gourmand Award. I balance strictness with fairness, ensuring the team is supported and motivated.

Does the excellence of the raw material define today’s cooking?

Absolutely. I always say that half of the work is in sourcing top-quality ingredients. The other half is how the chef applies skill and creativity to do something with the product. But for me, the foundation of any great dish lies in the quality of its raw materials.

What are your thoughts about the local culinary industry?

Having been part of the industry for over 25 years, I’ve witnessed big improvements, particularly over the last 15 years. The local culinary scene has grown significantly, and I’m proud of how far we’ve come. My hope is that we continue pushing boundaries and improving every day.

We often hear about the concept of: “from farm to fork”. Is the concept a viable route for the local food industry?

It can be to an extent, but challenging due to Malta’s size. Everyone knows it’s a small country with limited agricultural resources. Wherever possible, we prioritise high-quality local produce, not only when creating within the farm to fork concept. Sustainability is important to me, and we work with local farms to meet our quality standards. However, the reality is that some gaps must be filled by sourcing products from elsewhere.

What does excellence mean to you?

Excellence is a way of life. It means focusing on every detail, from A to Z—be it the product, service, ambiance, or food. Every element should contribute to creating an unforgettable experience. For me, excellence is about striving to be close to perfection in all we do.

What are your goals for the future?

A never-ending list of course! My primary goal is to always motivate my team, to share my philosophy—being better today than yesterday. I want to push the boundaries of gastronomy and for our restaurants to do well. Doing well not only by earning accolades but by being filled daily with happy guests coming over and over again to experience our services and cuisine. Another priority for me nowadays is nurturing young talent in gastronomy. We need to place importance on this to eliminate the industry’s growing challenge in attracting and developing new talent. We need to support the next generation of culinary professionals.

Aqra Wkoll